UPTLA Marker #39, see others in the series here.
Gateway to central Utah and California; formed by wave-action on leeward arm of ancient Lake Bonneville. Route of first settlers in central and southern Utah 1848 to 1854; of government mail line to San Diego 1854 to 1857; of Overland Mail and Stage Line to San Francisco 1858 to 1868; of Pony Express Line 1860 to 1861; and of first transcontinental telegraph line 1861 to 1868. Control and way stations on overland stage and Pony Express route about ten miles apart, mostly in view from this monument, were: Salt Lake City, Travelers Rest, Rockwell’s, Joes Dugout and Fort Crittenden (originally named Camp Floyd). A celebrated Ute Indian Chief, Named Tintic, led an attack on the early settlers of Lehi, between this monument and Utah Lake in February 1854, killing several men.
The original “Round Station” Pony Express station, located about three miles west of here, was burned down in an Indian attack, rebuilt with stones on this site, and renamed Canyon Station.
Stories of solitary Pony Express riders valiantly galloping through the western frontier still inspire people around the world. Publishers and editors during the 1860s often developed romanticized tales of the Wild West. Eyewitness accounts paint a more accurate picture of frontier history.
British explorer Sir Richard Burton visited Salt Lake City in September of 1860. His journal entries paint an eerie image of the Overland Stage and Pony Express stations west of the Great Salt Lake. Near the top of Overland Canyon, Burton wrote: “Nothing, certainly, could be better fitted for an ambuscade than this gorge, with its caves and holes in snow-cuts, earth-drops, and lines of strata… in one place we saw the ashes of an Indian encampment; in another, a whirlwind, curling, as smoke would rise from behind a projecting spur, [it] made us advance with the greatest caution.”
When en route to California, author Mark Twain vividly recounts his experience as a Pony Express rider gallops past his stagecoach: “We had a consuming desire from the beginning to see a pony-rider, but somehow or other all that passed us… managed to streak by in the night, and… the swift phantom of the desert was gone before we could get our heads out of the windows. But now we were expecting one… Away across the endless dead level of the prairie a black speck appears against the sky, and it is plain that it moves.”
“In a second or two it becomes a horse and rider, rising and falling, rising and falling – sweeping toward us nearer and nearer – growing more and more distinct, more and more sharply defined – nearer and still nearer, and the flutter of the hoofs comes faintly to the ear… another instant a whoop and a hurrah from our upper deck, a wave of the rider’s hand, but no reply, and man and horse burst past our excited faces, and go winging away like a belated fragment of a storm!”
Atrocities and Hostilities
American Indians inhabited lands along the Pony Express Trail for thousands of years before the Pony began its historic run. From the 1840s through the 1860s, they watched swarms of white settlers cross their homelands – impacting traditional hunting grounds with cattle and oxen grazing prairie grasses down to bare ground, and then the senseless killing of thousands of buffalo.
A long history of hostilities on both sides, combined with the terrible atrocities committed by hordes of miners during the 1859-60 rush for silver and gold at the Comstock Lode Mine in western Nevada, launched several years of conflict throughout the Great Basin area. Emigrant wagon trains, Pony Express riders, and station keepers alike began experiencing the angry reactions of regional tribes.
Pony Express riders and station workers alike were frequent targets of attack. Because they could hide safely behind cabin walls during an attack, one might think that workers in the station were safer than the riders were. Not so – more station workers were killed than riders were. Unlike riders who could usually outrun threats, station keepers were sitting ducks. Most of the stations across western Utah and Nevada were not much more than flimsy shelters – frequently located in remote areas far from help.
British adventurer, Sir Richard Burton, on his way west from Salt Lake City in 1860, made this observation on the stations:
“On this line there are two kinds of stations, the mail stations, where there is an agent in charge of five or six ‘boys,’ and the express station – where there is only a master and an express rider… It is a hard life, setting aside the change of death – no less than three murders have been committed by the Indians during this year.”
The Crowds Cheered On…
In 1845, it took six months to get a message from the east coast of the United States to California. By the time it arrived, the news was old. In the late 1850s, a half million people had migrated west, and they wanted up-to-date news from home. Something had to be done to deliver mail faster and to improve communication in the expanding nation.
“The Central Overland California and Pikes Peak Express Company,” a subsidiary of Russell, Majors, and Waddell, announced the formation of the Pony Express on January 27, 1860. They planned to carry letter mail between St. Joseph, Missouri and Sacramento, California in only ten days. Although the Pony Express was a financially risky enterprise, the company hoped to attract a lucrative contract with the U.S. Postal Service.
Knowing that a healthy horse could run at a full gallop for only 10 to 12 miles, the Pony Express needed stations for its riders to change mounts. They utilized existing stage stations on the eastern end of the route, but needed to build many new station in remote areas across the Great Basin. Alexander Majors said that 400 to 500 mustang horses were purchased, 200 men were hired to manage the station, and 80 riders signed on to begin the run of the Pony Express.
Although the Pony Express captured the admiration, imagination, and hearts of people, it was a financial disaster for its founders. The Pony era, however, was not brought to an end by its financial failure, weather, or even problems with Indians – but by the completion of the Transcontinental Telegraph on October 26, 1861.
“Every neck is stretched, and every eye stained… Across the endless prairie a black spec appears… In a second or two it becomes a horse and rider, rising and falling, rising and falling – sweeping toward us – growing more and more distinct, and the flutter of hoofs comes faintly to the ear – another instant a whoop and a hurrah from our upper deck, a wave of the rider’s hand, but no reply, and man and horse burst past our excited faces, and go winging away like belated fragment of a storm.” – Mark Twain – Roughing It, 1872.
This stabilized fortification, known in modern times as Round Station, was built in 1863 to serve the Overland Stage. It was probably the third incarnation of Canyon Station, the first two having been burned by Indians. The ruin at Round Station is that of a structure probably used for defense, and the foundation of the station is visible to the south and east across the parking lot. The interpretation is the product of a cooperative agreement among the BLM, National Park Service, and the Utah Division of the National Pony Express Association.
Of the canyon ahead, now called Overland Canyon, Burton observed: “Nothing, certainly, could be better fitted for an ambuscade than this gorge, with its caves and holes in snow cuts, earth-drops, and lines of strata, like walls of rudely piled stone; in one place we saw the ashes of an Indian encampment; in another a whirlwind, curling, as smoke would rise, from behind a projecting spur, made us advance with the greatest caution.”
(*)Information provided by Patrick Hearty, NPEA Utah, 2005.
Boyd Station Also known as, Desert Station, Boyd’s Station and Boyd’s Half-Way House
There is a very well preserved ruin of the station located here, fenced off and maintained by the BLM. The station was named for George Washington Boyd who built it in 1855 and lived there until after 1900, reportedly enjoying the solitude. He died in Salt Lake City in 1903.
This location is the site of Utah Pioneer Trails and Landmarks Association historic marker #92 which is no longer here (I did see a picture of the plaque in a museum and would like to find out where it is) and also Utah Crossroads Chapter – OCTA’s historic marker #COTNU-12.
“Left camp [at Fish Springs] at seven o’clock. Drove on to the first station [Boyd Station] and nooned.”
Albert Jefferson Young, August 12, 1862
Unsung Heroes
Strategically placed relay stations across the western frontier proved to be a major contributing factor to the early success of the Pony Express mail service. “Station Keepers” assigned to these outposts readied swift horses, fresh and rested, for each rider. Often working in pairs, day and night they kept a vigil for incoming riders.
Life for the brave men at these station covered a broad spectrum of living conditions depending upon location and situation. Home station were generally better established and more accommodating, even luxurious by some standards. Remote relay stations, especially in the West, were often exceedingly primitive.
In St. Joseph, Missouri, Patee House was one of the most luxurious hostelries on the frontier. This four story brick building, which is still standing, was well known for its social life and gala balls and parties. Smith Hotel in Seneca, KS, and the Salt Lake House in Utah, were other prominent hotels which served as comfortable home stations for riders and company personnel.
West of Salt Lake City and across the Great Basin to California, accommodations and quality of life tended to go downhill. Hot, dry summers and bitter, cold winters often were the only companions for station keepers. On other days, loneliness and idle time were interlaced by fending off horse thieves and Indian attacks. Frequently exposed to danger, many lost their lives in this daring American enterprise.
Though the Pony Express has become a romanticized legend in American history, the station keepers – those who kept the horse waiting and bid “Godspeed” to the rider as he galloped away – are the true unsung heroes of the Pony Express.
With Speed Came Limits
The first teams of Pony Express riders amazed the nation by accomplishing their east and westbound deliveries within the projected 10-day schedule. The speed of the riders even had a role in swaying a divided California to stay with the Union during the American Civil War. News of President Abraham Lincoln’s inaugural address was delivered in record-setting time – a new seven and one-half days.
On a typical run, Pony Express riders changed horses at relay stations located about 12-15 miles apart. At home stations, spaced about 75-100 miles, a fresh rider and mount would continue the run to the next station.
With speed however, came limits. Each Express rider had a carrying capacity of about 10 pounds – limited to what could fit into the four pockets of the mochila.
High demand for such limited capacity, combined with the monumental expense of finding the operation, made Pony Express rates extremely high: initially $5.00 per half ounce, or $1,000 per ounce in 2002 dollars. Consequently, most of its customers were the military, the U. S. Government, major newspapers, well-capitalized businesses, and individuals who could afford the service.
“It was not until December, 1860, that I had an opportunity to ride. The boys were dropping out pretty fast. Some of them could not stand the strain of the constant riding. It was not so bad in summer, but when winter came on, the job was too much for them. . . My first ride was in a heavy snow storm, and it pretty nearly used me up.” – Western Nebraska Pony Express Rider, William Campbell
The Crowds Cheered On…
In 1845, it took six months to get a message from the east coast of the United States to California. By the time it arrived, the news was old. In the late 1850s, a half million people had migrated west, and they wanted up-to-date news from home. Something had to be done to deliver mail faster and to improve communication in the expanding nation.
“The Central Overland California and Pikes Peak Express Company,” a subsidiary of Russell, Majors, and Waddell, announced the formation of the Pony Express on January 27, 1860. They planned to carry letter mail between St. Joseph, Missouri and Sacramento, California in only ten days. Although the Pony Express was a financially risky enterprise, the company hoped to attract a lucrative contract with the U.S. Postal Service.
Knowing that a healthy horse could run at a full gallop for only 10 to 12 miles, the Pony Express needed stations for its riders to change mounts. They utilized existing stage stations on the eastern end of the route, but needed to build many new station in remote areas across the Great Basin. Alexander Majors said that 400 to 500 mustang horses were purchased, 200 men were hired to manage the station, and 80 riders signed on to begin the run of the Pony Express.
Although the Pony Express captured the admiration, imagination, and hearts of people, it was a financial disaster for its founders. The Pony era, however, was not brought to an end by its financial failure, weather, or even problems with Indians – but by the completion of the Transcontinental Telegraph on October 26, 1861.
“Every neck is stretched, and every eye stained… Across the endless prairie a black spec appears… In a second or two it becomes a horse and rider, rising and falling, rising and falling – sweeping toward us – growing more and more distinct, and the flutter of hoofs comes faintly to the ear – another instant a whoop and a hurrah from our upper deck, a wave of the rider’s hand, but no reply, and man and horse burst past our excited faces, and go winging away like belated fragment of a storm.” – Mark Twain – Roughing It, 1872.
The first human occupation of the Fish Springs Marsh can be traced to the gradual evaporation of Pleistocene Lake Bonneville around 11,000 years ago and the formation of the marsh. Today, the Great Salt Lake and Utah Lake are all that remain of Lake Bonneville. Archaeological and botanical remains from Hot Springs Cave suggest the inhabitants of the cave were hunting and gathering the abundance of wild animals and plants that occur in this marsh environment.
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1981, Hot Springs Cave is crucial to our understanding of our past. Permits to excavate or remove artifacts on all federally owned sites can be issued only to qualified persons for the purpose of furthering knowledge in the public interest. Preservation of our national heritage is everyone’s responsibility. Enjoy but do not destroy your American Heritage.
Located 13 miles from Little Sandy Station and 15 miles from Big Timber Station at west edge of the town of Farson and east of Big Sandy Creek. (Henderson) Burned by Indians in 1862. The Sandy and Little Sandy flow past on the west and south. (Wyoming Guide) The Big Sandy was a stage station on the Overland route which was destroyed by the Indians when they set fire to several stage stations and farm houses in 1864. On the eastern division of the stage line, between Big Sandy and Thirty Two Mile Creek, every station but one was burnt by the Indians. Nearly every ranchman’s house between old Julesburg and Big Sandy was deserted. Big Sandy, Little Sandy and Old Dry Sandy were stage stations which were named from the creeks in that region. (WPA)
Cross Miry Creek. Road down Pacific Creek; water scarce for 20 miles. After 11 miles, “Dry Sandy Creek ;” water scarce and too brackish to drink ; grass little; sage and greasewood plentiful. After 16 miles, “Sublette’s Cut-off,” or the “Dry Drive,” turns N.W. to Soda Springs and Fort Hall: the left fork leads to Fort Bridger and Great Salt Lake City. Four miles beyond the junction is “Little Sandy Creek,” 20-25×2; grass, timber, and good camping-ground. Eight miles beyond is “Big Sandy Creek,” clear, swift, and with good crossing, 110×2. The southern route is the best; along the old road, no water for 49 miles. Big Sandy Creek Station.(*)
More photos from another time stopping by, in January 2018.
Just north of 7200 South street, on the west side of State Street, stood Travelers’ Rest, or Traders’ Rest, the first pony express station out of Salt Lake City. This station was probably used only for a short time, and no evidence of its existence can be found at the site. The location is marked by a granite marker placed by the Pony Express Trail Association.
Richard F. Fike and John W. Headley locate this first station site west of Salt Lake City nine miles south of the Salt Lake House. The station once stood on State Street in an area referred to as Lovendahl’s Corner. Some sources generally identify this first relay station as Trader’s Rest or Traveler’s Rest. The 1861 mail contract identified Trader’s Rest Station, where Absalom Smith managed station operations. After the Pony Express era, someone added wood siding and a false front to the adobe building to convert it into a business establishment. The building was also used as a garage prior to its destruction sometime before 1979.
